You may have noticed that I have a penchant for re-purposing sweaters.
I was at the thrift store and snagged this lovely powder blue lambs wool sweater. I knew almost immediately that I wanted to make a dress coat similar to this one I made for Project Run & Play.
I was going to share it for iCandy Handmade’s basic bodice series (such a smart series that shows you the many many things you can make just from a basic bodice), but saved it for this series because the powder blue color, although not white, was perfect for the tone and feel of Winter Whites.
You simply use your favorite bodice (one size larger) to make a cute little coat. In my case a…
It doesn’t have to be for a baby though! If you want to make a dress coat for an older child, simply buy fabric by the bolt (or get a huge sweater?) so you have enough fabric.
Now, grab your favorite dress bodice and let’s make one!
Materials:
dress bodice pattern
outer fabric: wool, bottom weight, fleece, corduroy
liner fabric
8 buttons
a scrap of interfacing (optional)
1 yard or so of twill tape
matching or coordinating thread
A note about my fabrics: I used a wool sweater so it was a knit wool (stretchy). This tutorial will work for non-stretchy wool very well and maybe even better (because non-stretchy wool is easier to sew). Just make sure your outer fabric has some drape and/or structure.
My liner fabric is a quilter’s cotton from Joann. A thinner more flexible fabric is ideal, but I reaaaly like this print and thought it matched the coat well. It complemented the knit wool well and helped give it structure.
Okay, let’s begin.
1. Cut out your top pieces. You need:
2 front outer bodice pieces (make sure extend the inside edges long enough so they can overlap and accommodate seam allowance)
2 front liner bodice pieces
1 outer bodice piece
1 liner bodice piece
2 collar pieces*
2 sleeve pieces
*To draft a coat collar, I took my peter pan collar pattern and cut it on the fold while straightening one end into a line.
2. Construct the collar.
– Cut a piece of interfacing. Lay the two collar pieces right sides together (RST) and then add the interfacing to the bottom. Pin and sew, leaving the inside edges open.
– Cut notches at the curved parts, and reduce bulk at the seam allowance.
– Flip it right side out and top stitch close to the sewn edge.
**You can omit the interfacing if you want a softer collar.
3. Prep your bodice.
– Pin and sew the outer and liner bodice pieces at the shoulders, RST.
– Trim off the bulk at the seam allowance.
4. Bring the bodice and collar together.
– Pin the collar to the outer bodice piece, right sides out. Baste the collar on.
– Pin the liner bodice piece to the outer bodice piece RST.
– Sew around the neckline and down the inside edge of the front of the bodice. Cut notches at the curves, cut off the corners, and reduce the bulk by trimming away some of the seam allowance.
– Turn the bodice right side out.
– Top stitch around the base of the collar.
5. Attach the sleeves and complete the top of the coat.
– Pin the sleeves to the armholes RST. Sew/serge.
– Bring the whole bodice RST, and sew/serge along the sleeve and down the sides of the bodice.
– Sew the serged seam allowance down to one side about 1/2 inch or so, with a straight stitch, making sure to back-stitch at the start and stop.
6. Attach the skirt piece.
– Cut the bottom of the sweater or a piece of fabric 1.5-2 times the full width of the bodice (Depending on how full you want it to be).
– Hem the inside of the skirt piece. You may also need to hem the bottom. It doesn’t show it in the tutorial pics, but I later hemmed the bottom because it was too long and I didn’t like how the sweater ribbing pulled the hem inward. I only rolled my hem under and straight stitched because this knit wool doesn’t fray. You may need to cut a longer piece and double hem the insides if you are using fabric that frays.
– Pleat and pin the skirt to the bodice.
– Sew.
– Pin on a piece of twill tape over the seam and sew down with two lines of straight stitching (this is optional but gives a more polished look). Be mindful that your stitching will show up on the outside of the coat. Mine didn’t come out perfect, but I tried to keep it as even as possible.
7. Add a decorative back strap.
– Cut and sew a strap to your desired size. I used a thread spool to help me get a good rounded shape for my strap.
– Sew RST, leaving an opening at the side for turning it out. Trim down the seam allowance.
– Turn it right side out, fold the sides of the opening inward and top stitch around.
– Pin it to the back of your dress coat and sew it on by the buttons on the sides.
8. Add buttons and button holes to the front. I chose to put them on in parallel lines, pea coat style.
Go to MADE for a button hole tutorial and to Ruffles and Stuff here for my favorite way to sew on buttons.
DONE!
The collar is a little off (and twisted in this photo – what? didn’t realize that until now) but I still love it…enough to not unpick it. 🙂
Natalie has become quite the mover lately. I chased her all over the sidewalk trying to get a good picture of her in her coat. ….
I finally, wised up and moved the photoshoot inside.
Ahhh…there we go! (trapped)
I like dress coats because well…they flare out like a dress.
Have you ever tried to put a regular, straight coat on a baby who is wearing a dress? The coat cuts of the dress at the fullest part of the skirt and makes it bunch up. It’s just not very pretty. A dress coat solves that problem beautifully!
I also made one in fleece.
I didn’t line it and it’s not quite as rich looking as the wool but is still, sweet, cozy and warm. Fleece is a nice alternative because it’s very affordable and comes in about every color you can imagine.
That’s a wrap for today! A simple boy project is in the works for tomorrow. I know my projects have been a little girl heavy, so I’m excited to focus on my boys for a bit. See you then!
And be sure to go to Kojodesigns for a pretty copper barn light project!
The baby…the coat…the photos…Gah! So adorable!
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what a beauty of a little coat!
you were spot on, that blue is the most PERFECT winter color& it turned out so beautifully. Talk about ladies I am inspired and in awe of, you top the list!
so glad to have blogger to find all of you fellow seamstresses (sewists?) … there are very few that I have met in close proximity to me. boo!
Cute. i can’t believe Natalie is walking already!!
When I saw that photo yesterday, I immediately wondered if you had made the coat! Suspicions confirmed. Natalee has to be the best dressed baby in all of Utah!
this is so cute Delia! I don’t know what I love more, the coat – or the ‘Only Fabric’ scissors – ha! Seriously though, your little one – she is just priceless. I love seeing photos of her!
Stunning coat , such a beautiful colour.
Amazing! as usual…
🙂
this is all kinds of adorable!!
Like Laura said, Stunning coat.
Love this- if it weren’t 70 degrees here today, I’d make one!! 🙂
This is fabulous, Delia!
Oh Delia, you’re so talented! I adore your work!
I love this coat! It looks so cozy and comfortable. =) I like dress coats better too… I wish I had the courage to make one for myself, but if not for myself, I can at least make them for my daughters. =)
Is there a serger that you could recommend?
Oh, wow, Delia, your little lady is getting so big. Time sure does fly! This coat is absolutely perfect. Love the color for winter.
These coats are absolutely beautiful, as is your baby girl! Well done! I hope I have kids half as beautiful as yours (and that I can actually sew them cute clothes). 🙂
Both coats are so terrific and I love that the blue one is from a thrifted sweater. Awesome refashion!
Amazing – you are so clever 🙂 I want to give this a go – you have inspired me 🙂
she could not be any cuter. adorable and cozy coats!!
Loving it! Too cute. I so want to make a fleece pea coat for my girl. I have been wanting to do that for the longest time. The only thing stopping me is a good pattern/tutorial, time, and most of all space. But I am working on the space thing, hopefully.
I'm astonished… I'm thinking you're like wonder woman! It took me some days that I didn't come here and I found a lot of fabulous work! Tell me the truth: you have the super powers! 😉
Adorable! These coats looks so great on her! She is such a delicate looking little lady too–so elegant.
Super Cute. I love this idea.
Love, love, love the poweder blue coat on Natalie, she looks gorgeous. And I can't believe she is up and running it seems like yesterday that you were making baby clothes in preparation for her.
Dear Delia,
This coat is fabulous! I also want to do it for my little daughter, but I’m a beginner in sewing. Can you help me? Please scan and send me the pattern in e-mail, because i don’t know how to draw it (or explain it 🙂 ). Thank you very much!
What a cute lil coat.
May I ask for the pattern?
Would you mind sending me the pattern in email?
Would be so nice of you.
Thank you very much!
Hi Anja and Agnes. I am sorry. I used an existing pattern from another designer as the basis for the tutorial and am unable to share it. I encourage you to find a dress pattern you like online or from JoAnn and follow the tutorial. Best of luck! 🙂
That looks like a stunning design but I can seem to find the right fabric to use could you suggest where to look and what it’s called?
Thank you Jess! I used an old sweater. You can use wool fabric as well. A wool knit, or suiting type wool should do well. I hope that helps!
Is there a pattern link for this adorable coat? Also, what size/age is this coat made for?
Hi Tiffany! Sorry, there is not. I do sell a dress ebook and a jacket ebook with Five and Ten Designs that would give you the pattern pieces and tutorials to recreate something like this. They are pricier ($25) but you get 10 different jacket or dress looks with each e-book. Here is the link: http://fiveandtendesigns.com/
If you just want to follow this tutorial, find a dress bodice that fits the size of your recipient. It will mostly all stay the same. You may just need to adjust how wide and long the skirt portion is. I hope that helps!
Stunning!!!!
Can I ask if there are patterns to print ?
Thanks !!
Thank you! I don’t have a pattern available. Sorry about that. I only shared the tutorial on how to change an existing dress bodice pattern into a baby coat. I hope that helps?
You should really post a pattern and how much fabric you’ll need, this was listed as a beginner project on allfreesewing.com and I don’t know where to start without a pattern, it’s very confusing unless you know how to draw a pattern yourself.
Hi Anna,
Sorry for the inconvenience to you. I didn’t post this to allfreesewing, someone else must have done that for me, so I apologize if you feel you were misled. This is definitely not a beginner project. I would say it’s for maybe an intermediate sew-er or at the very least, an experienced beginner.
It is not a free pattern. Instead it’s a tutorial for converting an existing dress pattern into a dress coat pattern. I hope that helps? If you already have a dress bodice pattern on hand or if you want to buy one, then this tutorial can help you take it from there.
Let me know if you have any further questions.
Happy sewing!
Delia
Where can I find the full pattern for for this dress?
Hi Ebone,
I think I was using an old Simplicity dress pattern as a base. I wish I still had it, but I don’t. I am so sorry! It will really work with any dress bodice pattern though. I hope that helps?
Delia