Turn it yellow…
No…pink!
This two tone crochet beanie uses a half double slip stitch to create this beautiful ribbed texture and super cool two color effect.
If you’ve never heard of the hdss before, it basically starts out like a half double crochet stitch and then ends like a slip stitch, hence the name. While sounding easy, it is actually a little bit challenging to execute the right tension. So if you are a brand new beginner, I would set this project aside and come back to it after you’ve made other more beginner friendly beanies.
This project also has you crocheting over opposing strands of yarn which also makes the tension tricky and the stitch work slow. I would rate the skill level of this beanie at intermediate.
Challenges aside, the final effect makes it SO worth it. It’s the perfect slow burn type of project to take your time with. It took me about a month of picking up a few rows here and there to get the rectangle portion done. Of course, more dedicated effort would be much much faster.
Let’s get started.
MATERIALS
- Two colors of wool or acrylic blends of DK/category 3 yarn*
- 5.00 mm hook
- Scissors and yarn needle
- Liquid Stitch (optional)
Materials Notes
*You need about 60 g or 185 yards of each color. I chose Superwash Merino Wool yarn from Lion Brand in mustard yellow and ballet shoe pink. It’s super soft and easy to work with.
*I highly recommend rolling your yarn into cakes (or balls). It will make switching between colors so much easier and it will make the inevitable twists and tangles easier to sort through.
SKILL LEVEL
Intermediate.
If you have made a few beanies already and are familiar with the third loop, then you’re ready for this one. Just be sure to work up a gauge swatch first to get a feel for the tension the hdss requires.
SIZING
This hat fits most adult heads up to 24 inches in circumference and is about 10 inches tall after being gathered.
Fit Adjustments
If you need to go smaller or larger you can add or remove rows. Just be sure that your last row is the opposite color of the 1st row. This means that your row count should always be even.
If you want the brim to be wider or if you want the hat to be taller, simply add to your starting chain. Just be sure to account for the change with your yarn amounts.
GAUGE
3 x 3 inch square = 14 sshdc x 18 rows
Gauge Swatch
I would chain 18, and work 16 sshdc for 20 rows, then measure within that slightly larger swatch to see if the gauge matches. The sides and ends can retract a little and skew the measurements.
It’s also important to note that the stitches compress somewhat the more rows you work. If your gauge is slightly bigger than what is listed, you are probably fine to proceed with the 5.00 mm hook.
If it’s smaller, than go up a hook size. If it’s much much bigger, then go down a hook size.
ABBREVIATIONS
This pattern uses U.S. crochet terms.
- ch = chain
- sl st = slip stitch
- hdss = half double slip stitch
VIDEO TUTORIAL
The video should have already popped to the top or side of your screen. If it hasn’t, then it will play here.
Please note that an ad will play before the tutorial and can be mistaken for a pop up ad. If you “x” out of it, you have to refresh the page to get the video tutorial back.
I also have this video listed on YouTube. My video host is not allowing for the video to be expanded to a larger size right now, so if you want the option to do that, go HERE.
Music is by Pleasant Pictures Music Club.
WRITTEN PATTERN & TUTORIAL
Disclaimer: Normally, I create test versions of my patterns before creating my final version for the tutorial. Because this stitch is so slow to work up, I skipped that and designed and edited the final version as I went. That means some of the video and photos show original versions that eventually got frogged and updated. For example, I originally chained 42, instead of 51, which is what is pictured. You probably won’t even notice the discrepancy, but I want to be transparent about it. The actual written pattern and stitch counts reflect the edited and most up to date version.
CROCHET A RECTANGLE
Starting with color 1, ch 51.
Row 1: Turn, hdss in the second ch from the hook. Work hdss for the rest of the row. Total stitch count (NOT including skipped ch) = 50.
Row 2: Lay color 2 onto your hook, yarn over and pull through. Tug on color 1 to secure the new color. Working with color 2, turn, ch 1. Hdss into the third loop of the 1st stitch in the previous row. Make sure color 1 is laying on top and in front of the color 2 yarn/working yarn for this row so that you crochet over it as you go. (See the video for more clarification if needed). Hdss into the third loop of each stitch in the row. For the last stitch, instead of working the third loop, work in between the last stitch and the starting ch 1 to help square off the sides. Double check that the stitch count is 50. Pull the color 1 strand you crocheted over to clean up any bunching or gathering that may have occurred. (50)
Row 3: Yarn over and pull color 1 through the loop on your hook. Pull on color 2 strand to secure the new color. Working with color 1, turn, ch 1. Hdss into the third loop and under the strand of color 2 for each stitch until the last stitch. Work the last stitch in between the last stitch of the previous row and the ch 1. Double check that the stitch count is 50. Pull the color 2 strand you crocheted over to clean up any bunching or gathering that may have occurred. (50)
Row 4: Yarn over and pull color 2 through the loop on your hook. Pull on color 1 to secure the new color. Working with color 1, turn, ch 1. Hdss into the third loop and under the strand of color 1 for each stitch until the last stitch. Work the last stitch in between the last stitch of the previous row and the ch 1. Double check that the stitch count is 50. Pull the color 1 strand you crocheted over to clean up any bunching or gathering that may have occurred.(50)
Continue this pattern for a total of 114 rows.
All odd rows will be the same as Row 3.
All even rows will be the same as Row 4.
Note: If you need to add or subtract rows, make sure you end on an even row and with color 2.
TIPS FOR SUCCESS:
1. Because one of the sides will become the brim, you want it to be even and clean. However you decide to work the last stitch in each row, make sure it is consistent each time so that the brim looks neat.
2. Stretch your work after each completed row before switching colors to keep things even. Pull the non-working strand of yarn tightly (so much that it gathers up the row) and then stretch the row back out as much as possible. This will help everything lay flat and will prevent any cinching or warping that can come from carrying yarn through each row. The last row may look flared out for a bit, but it will shrink back into a straight line the more rows you work.
3. I also like to give the whole rectangle a tug and stretch every few rows to protect against any warping and to ensure it maintains a nice square rectangle shape that is still stretchy.
4. Make sure the non-working yarn you are crocheting over is on top of and in front of the yarn you are using (a.k.a. the working yarn). This will ensure that the third loop is easily accessible in the next row and it will keep the color lines nice and crisp looking.
You can see in the photo below where I got my strand placement wrong. I didn’t notice until I had worked several rows that I didn’t want to pull out. It’s not too noticeable from far away but it’s worth being mindful of for the best finish.
5. The third loop in the first stitch in each row can be pretty tight. Using a yarn needle or the tip of your scissors to tease it out before completing your stitch helps a lot.
6. Count your stitches almost every row. I know this sounds annoying but you would be surprised how easy it can be to miss a stitch at the end and slowly make your rectangle creep into a trapezoid if you aren’t counting.
SEAM AND GATHER BEANIE
Once you have created a rectangle of 114 rows, flip it over so that the color 1 dominate side is facing up.
Fold it in half lengthwise.
Using just color 2, slip stitch the last row worked to the corner of the starting chain/row 1. Ch 1 to start the seaming row.
Then work hdss through the first stitch in the starting chain/row 1 AND the third chain of the first stitch from the last row worked.
Continue to seam together the ends working hdss through both layers. They should match up stitch for stitch. If you’re doing it correctly, the seam, which is worked in color 2 will show up on the color 2 dominate side of the beanie, and row 1, which consists of color 1 will push inward to the color 1 dominate side.
Now that you have a tube, decide which side you want to be the brim and which side you want to be the top of your hat. On the side that will be cinched for the top of your hat, cut a 12-18 inch tail. Leave a 4-5 inch tail on the other end.
To gather the top of your beanie, use the long tail to sew a running stitch around the tube opening. Pull it tight to gather it in, taking care that it doesn’t tug on the seam and distort it. Then sew through the gathers carefully, pulling it tighter as you go, until the hat top looks secure and clean from both sides. Remember, this beanie is meant to be reversible.
Weave in all of the remaining tails. Normally, I like to criss cross them between rows to make them really secure. To maintain the integrity of the color lines, you can’t do that. So, I just wove the tails back into a matching row and then used liquid stitch adhesive to secure the ends. The glue dries clear and flexible. Just take care not to be too heavy handed with it or it will clump and be scratchy when it dries.
Ta da!
Now you have a magical, reversible, two toned beanie!
Here’s a peek at the seam:
Not the cleanest seam I’ve ever made, which bugs me, but I’m calling it good enough!
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